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Runway Report

Give him points for showmanship: For his presentation at Lakmé Fashion Week, Troy Costa transformed the Shillong Chamber Choir into flash singers who rose from the audience and broke into song. The setting was important — the designer had told me before the show — because of the theme that was inspired in part by Mark Gertler's painting 'Merry Go Round' and in part by the league of 1930's gentlemen that revived British styles. To portray the theme in a modern context he used waterproof thread and colour intarsia.

A vibe of casual connoisseurship underpinned jackets over printed shirts and turn-up slim pants. Troy's looks continued to thrill his front row and it was obvious he had a formula that worked i.e. zippered shirts worn with jackets with double vents and peaked lapels.. piped collars and sleeve plackets. There was no room for theatrical flourishes in the laser-sharp commercially honed pieces that tailored the label's heritage to the nth—two-toned brocade jackets and textureed velvet tuxedoes. The striped suitings at times revealed herringbone or hounds tooth and floral prints injected Brit gentility into the surging bloodstream of twenty-first-century models. 
The verdict was out before guests left: the lean eveningwear in brocade and linen and unusual suiting fabrics had masculine grace. When this line hits stores, expect neat separates and accessories honoring urban functionality. But surely that's the spirit fashion should bring to the juggernaut collision of 1930's and 2010's? As Troy says: "WHY DRESS DOWN WHEN YOU CAN DRESS UP?"


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