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Runway Report

Closing FDCI India Couture Week, Tarun Tahiliani's 'Bloom' in association with Swarovski, showcased his aesthetic of India Modern—a term he is associated with for his contemporary presentation of traditional Indian craftsmanship.


As the first of eighty-two looks came out, it brought to mind a conversation with the couturier a few days before the show."Our customers have deep rooted traditions but are well educated, travelled and up to date with global fashion. They will not compromise on quality, technique and attention to detail" he told me. "The new age bride and groom wants exquisite garments, however, with functionality. They want to maintain tradition but with a modern outlook." So he trimmed the volume—allowing himself lightweight lehengas worn with lightweight jackets, shararas, concept and pre-draped saris and anarkalis — with structured drapes.


But if all that felt like a modern way to deal with bridalwear, Tahiliani's mastery of classic couture embellishments—from French knots and lace to ombré beading and Swarovski crystals—meant that opulence was never absent. Floral motifs lifted with Kashmir-inspired kashida, mukaish, badla and resham ensured that each ensemble was distinctive and lightweight… and judging by the awe-struck guests, all the looks will make it into the closets of his loyal clientele! The menswear shared a similar aesthetic, particularly the structured sherwanis and dhotis. The showing ended on a dramatic note with an anonymous non-show-stopper in a white tulle gown paired with a net face mask. The idea was to shine the spotlight on his ensembles, truly the show-stoppers of the evening. Salut.


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