Shruti Sancheti Winter Festive 2014 was a grown-up show with slick production and good models. But the really grown-up element was the clothes crafted for cosmopolitan polished ladies. Sancheti has always highlighted her brand's vision of supporting the weaving community and this season too she worked with silks woven in Banaras with zari and makhmaal — embellished with zardosi and kasab. The lotus motif on brooches was fascinating as inspiration and created a buzz that it highlighted the designer's political belief — her grandfather-in-law Madan Lal Sancheti is founder of Jan Sangh which later became BJP and lotus is its symbol. I was impressed as it reinforced personal fondness for her as a lady who stands by her beliefs.

The perfect circularity of the presentation was an embodiment of the designer's fascination with the way ideas roll find new life and modes of expression. The celebration of India's textile tradition began as models showcased Sharara jumpsuits and pleated anarkalis.. cropped choga jackets and wrap skirts.. asymmetrical pleated smocks and shifts with checked yoke. What caught our attention—and held it—was a sari with a long-sleeve trench and a black-and-gold sheath with side cut-outs. A red pleated skirt with brocade bodice and an elaborate gold lehenga closed the showing that will be hard to beat as the season's high point, one which saw her close friends clapping and cheering.

— JASMEEN DUGAL