Shruti Sancheti built her label by resolutely working directly with weavers to revive traditional textile craft—without sacrificing modern aesthetic and global relevance for sustainability. With Advance Diploma in Fashion Design from JD Institute of Fashion, Diploma in Textile Design at INIFD and Jewellery Design from JD Institute of Fashion, she joined the faculty of INIFD as Head of Design before launching her label. So, it was no wonder there was a lot of excitement around her showcase at Amazon India Fashion Week.

I loved the way she weaved her inspiration into the broader theme "Let It Pret". Steeped in inspiration from Russia which she feels is "a magnificent country with glorious history, splendid architecture and unique culture." Her muse? "Princess Anastasia who was kidnapped during Bolshevik revolution and led life as a peasant in disguise. That is why the collection has a opulent look but is folk in soul." Making it look simple is the trick and Sancheti did that by sending out ensembles crafted with woven silk textile she developed for the collection with cross-stitch embossed pattern to give the ensembles a local Russian feel. There were different tartans customised to specification and a screen for small checks which recurred through the collection.

I loved the bolero crafted with a blend of silk, cotton and textured tweed embellished with floral threadwork—and accessorised with an embroidered tribal belt emphasising the waist. And the ruffled textured shirt with soft bell sleeves, enhanced with cross-stitch embroidery, and worn with a textured tweed high-waist long skirt. And, of course, the long tiered dress crafted with silk; the cross-stitch motifs and tribal embroidery on the sleeves .made it a statement piece.  Each look had guests spellbound by the intensely detailed decoration in the form of intricate hand embroidery in the floral and tribal motifs.

As she graciously accepted compliments I nailed the show's attraction: a structured pret line threaded with regal sophistication. "Pret is the order of the day and with rapid globalisation, increasing consumerism and busy lifestyles; the demand for smart ready-to-wear is increasing and consumers want versatile looks which can be dressed up or down according to their requirements. It's something no designer can ignore" she mused. Brilliance.

— JASMEEN DUGAL
Photographs — VINOD KUMAR FOR EXPLOSIVE FASHION