"Wedding is the biggest market for all designers. If today a groom wears a Khadi bridal ensemble, family members too would be inspired to do the same. There will be a lot of respect created for Brand Khadi." So, for Rajasthan Heritage Week, Rohit Kamra presented "The Khadi Groom" — a menswear line with a regal sensibility. The collection focuses on classics, among them sherwanis, achkans, bandhgala, kurtas, slim breeches and rider pants, reinterpreted with precision cuts and masculine draping.

The proportion play emphasised the collection's sensual fluidity. Breeches did not follow traditional logic, riding down the legs in a slim fit so it's versatile in character; while the bandhgala had a dramatic look to appeal to younger men. As models walked down the runway, it was apparent Kamra had focused on deft experiments with how particular seams are sewn, how the construction of an arm or leg subtly effects the silhouette, and how fabric can affect the draping—he used wool khadi, kota doria and specially developed cotton khadi which he believes offers a masculine drape. Working within these subtleties and a regal aesthetic is what's exciting; it's what will allow the label to continue evolving.

And, it's good to know that I'm not the only one who appreciated Rohit Kamra's menswear! The applause after this show was as loud and sustained as any heard in RHW. 

— JASMEEN DUGAL