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ROHIT KAMRA
Runway Report
 

Rohit Kamra's design aesthetic focuses on regal ensembles for men but what I saw at Amazon India Fashion Week was a pragmatic rewriting of his couture codes for a new generation of consumers. Age diversity is the runway frontier for the designer — the proportion play emphasised the collection's sensual fluidity; breeches, Jodhpurs, polo and rider pants did not follow traditional logic, riding down the legs in a slim fit; while the achkan, the hunting safari and the sherwani had a youthful dramatic appeal. It was clearly a subtle futuristic spin on traditional classics.

 

As the handsome young men walked down the runway, it was apparent Kamra had focused on deft experiments with how particular seams are sewn, how the construction of an arm or leg subtly effects the silhouette, and how fabric can affect the draping—he used corduroy, velvet and suede which he believes offers a masculine drape. Working within these subtleties and a regal aesthetic is what's exciting; it's what will allow the label to continue evolving.

 

As the show drew to a close, I reflected on how the couturier had filtered classic references through a modern lens. My favourite looks? The embroidered velvet outerwear and the high-neck denim jacket freshened by the insertion of pockets and worn with slim Jodhpurs; undoubtedly youthful charmers. My last thoughts were how this was a collection that glanced back at the royal era but stayed current—and that should attract future Rohit Kamra-curious consumers!

— JASMEEN DUGAL
Photographs — VINOD KUMAR FOR EXPLOSIVE FASHION

 
 
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Other Shows by this Designer
ROHIT KAMRA - SPRING SUMMER 2019 ROHIT KAMRA - RAJASTHAN HERITAGE WEEK
 
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