Designer Rinku Sobti's vision was compelling, steeped in inspiration from the magnificient work of Varanasi's Bajardiya weavers, proving she has an eye for tapping into the textile industry's pride and crafting them into silhouettes that befits her contemporary customer. Strength of the weavers' delicate handwork was visible in saris, impeccably crafted jackets, collared shirts, slim skirts and lehengas crafted from silk net—featuring checks and rich woven patterns.

All looks had modern edge and ease. “I see a lot of potential in handlooms. India has the talent of weavers and the modern global aesthetic of designers,” is her take. Heritage talk aside, this was the kind of collection that had the front row sit up and take notice and, more critically, covet it! I expect to see Bollywood’s royals in them all awards season long.

— JASMEEN DUGAL