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PANKAJ AND NIDHI
Runway Report
 

''The future of haute couture is not going to be just about bridal wear. It's going to be more evolved. The occasions where couture could be worn is becoming diverse and that's what makes it exciting'' Pankaj had explained to me on the eve of his couture showing at FDCI India Couture Week. Now, I love the culture of couture and I was fascinated to see how Pankaj Nidhi would make it more contemporary and relaxed in their debut couture showing.

 

Taking inspiration from mosaic which flourished in the Byzantine empire, the duo recreates it with three-dimensional hand-cut appliqués, metallic fabric biscuits, tropunto quilting, crystals, beading, delicate threadwork and geometric motifs on lightweight tulle, silk, satin and organza. What stunned me was the intricate detailing — the duo is acclaimed for cutwork done by hand. It is not laser cut… it is cut with a small pair of scissors. The foundation of their couture, then, is lightweight, wearable glamorous couture that would turn heads at the red carpet or destination birthday, film premiere, brunch or black-tie cocktails. The message is that of everyday luxury and wearability.

 

As the forty-three look show progressed, a shift towards emboldened femininity set the agenda.The simplicity of silhouette and the couture embellishment with a restrained hand added visual assertiveness to the looks. Although each look was stunning due to the hand-cut embellishment, the metallic crop tops and the molten rose, silver and gold asymmetrical skirts with three-dimensional hand-cut appliqué had us reaching for our smartphones to tag as must-have! Other hot-sellers include the sculpted metallic dress cut to the thigh, worn by Alesia Raut and the pastel pink, single statement-sleeve shimmer organza blouse and voluminous skirt with gold hand-cut appliqué, worn by Aditi Rao Hydari.

 

Walking out of the show, I couldn't help but wonder how the duo had used metalosophy and haute artistry with mathematical precision. to make each look very, very wearable. It will be engaging to watch how Pankaj and Nidhi fine-tunes and expands their vision, going forward.

— JASMEEN DUGAL

 
 
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