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Runway Report

The intent of 'Antar Agni' Autumn Winter 2016 is as layered as the garments showcased at Amazon India Fashion Week. Gender equality was at the heart of former Science student and NIFT alumnus Ujjwal Dubey's design aesthetic, reflecting Indian fashion consumers' evolving attitude towards Fashion. Giving men more opportunities to wear fine fabrics and experiment with draping, he sent out edgy garments like dhoti pants, asymmetrical kurtas, waistcoats, double-breasted jackets and long coats crafted with handwoven khadi and cotton silk.


Dubey finds ways to express the notion of loosening the strait-laced. ''Menswear is a challenging category. I'm trying to add a distinct dimension to it with drape. The sole criterion is that the wearer should feel comfortable, confident and make a statement.'' For the young designer, the focus was theatrical draping as he steered clear of embellishment and bold colour — red was also seen in its burnished hue. The detailing too was stitch lines and subtle volume. Asymmetric draped kurtas was a big proposal. When he paired it with slouchy or dhoti-styled pants, it had a sensual indolence that subtly subverted the basic tee-and-joggers formula. There was the same incongruity in the jackets with wide drape collars or cowl necklines. Little things that suggested whoever is wearing the suit isn't the strait-laced guy you think he is! A stellar collection that is already being seen on the red carpet as I write!!


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