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Runway Report

Suits have been a subject of this menswear season—how to make them palatable to a new generation being the key issue. Anees Deen's sculpted waistcoats, jackets and blazers styled without a shirt—some accessorised with hats and suspenders, others with pocket squares or ties—made a convincing case at India Luxury Style Week; a theme which circled back for evening, with variations on suits crafted from self jacquard fabrics and falcon velvets.


Strong as those passages were, the nub of the collection is what the designer does to elevate the suits to aspirational-designer-trophy level for his clientele—and they'll likely be stoked by the ideas he came up with here. Rather than follow the big-shouldered trend, he essentially shifted the silhouette to concentrate on playing around with sculpted silhouettes, worn over slim pants. There was plenty of substance—like the designer,my favourite looks too, were the double-breasted lapelled jacket crafted with self-textured Italian fabric and the long-tail hooded sleeveless cardigan intricately embellished with Swarovski pearl; this was sophisticated, luxury fashion. My last thoughts? It was a show which fully held attention, which is saying a lot, considering what Aneesdeen was up against.


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