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Runway Report

Come March 10, most designers are Lakmé Fashion Week bound though one of the prolific participants broke away from the pack by digging in her peg at Tote with muslin draped trees and multiple catwalks snaking through the venue to open the Summer Resort 2011 season of Lakmé Fashion Week.

Masculine versus feminine is a strong, recurring theme but there was no show in the recent past where it gained as much prominence as in Anamika Khanna, who played with the two silhouettes of regal Indian ensembles and menswear with the dhoti being a chief inspiration. "I want to take my design to the next level," she had told us last season. "You can get stuck in one mode." Perhaps it wasn't surprising, given Anamika Khanna's design aesthetic, that the most attractive looks were the most luxuriously simple. The showing opened with a simple white mul kurta with chikan work worn over pajamas with shimmering embroidery on the hem. The Kolkata-based designer then unleashed a pop of color and the print story was in muted abstracts or large circular motifs.

The feminine side of the story unraveled with long jackets embellished with silver cutwork, voluminous elephant pants, embroidered cutwork asymmetric blouses, swirling red lehengas with large embroidered hemlines and sheer voluminous skirts worn over churidars. Collars rose to cover the neck while the shawls with silver embroidered borders topped our must-have list. Representing the masculine side were stiff shirts with wide cuffs, belted jackets and tailored coats, which reliably captured the luxurious simple Anamika Kkanna spirit.

That said, Anamika Khanna is a focused and sensitive designer who has built a solid retail following and it feels good to see her adding a novel touch to her repertoire.

— Jasmeen Dugal
Photographs — Press Kit

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ANAMIKA KHANNA - Autumn Winter 2011 ANAMIKA KHANNA - Couture 2012-13
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