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SHINING NEW STARS

— Meher Castelino

There was a time in the jewellery business — just like in the fashion industry — when India was known as a manufacturing centre but the twenty-first century has changed all that with fashion and jewelleery designers making strong statements with their creativity and transforming India into a hub where the best options for garments or jewellery can be viewed. And if the fashion industry boasts of Gen Next designers the jewellery industry is not far behind! The shining new stars from Indian Institute of Gems and Jewellery recently showcased jewellery that was mind boggling.

While some of the jewellery designers showcased contemporary bridal jewellery many still preferred to stay true to the polkis and uncut diamonds as well as the traditional styles of heritage jewellery. Drawing inspiration from nature RAHUL LUTHRA presented rich sapphires-rubies-and-tanzanite alongside dazzling diamonds in a line of vintage cocktail pieces as well as stunning bridal jewellery. The delicate Kalirey a wedding ornament worn on the wrists had dangling pearls and was worn with a coordinated Raani Haar interspersed with gold spheres, earrings and pearl-edged Maang Tikka! Among the innovative pieces the toe-cum-anklet jewel added glamour to the feet while a shimmer of diamonds gave a western touch to the jewels.

It was great to observe some designers went off the beaten path and focused on unconventional jewellery like the ring which has now turned into a statement piece for many fashionistas. CHERRY SAHNI specialised in rings which ranged from full finger shields and thumb covers to three-finger ornaments and triple chained rings. She also added palm hand cuffs to balance the look. The lapel pins teamed with pearl and carved emeralds was a smart innovation! The jewels by Sabina Batra was intricate and bold but utterly feminine.  The ring-cum-bracelet and the coiled necklace with onyx and diamonds.. lacy placket-style neckpiece and Chandbalis with jhumkis and coordinated necklace.. and white gold lean neckpiece were stunners.

Astitva presented by 21 designers from Jaipur was a tribute to architecture from the various regions of the country moving from North to South and East to West and of course City Palace Jaipur. Cuffs had side ribs while earrings were crafted in unusual abstract paisley-inspired shapes. Silk tassels hung form the centre of gleaming neckpieces. Peacocks were a popular theme for pendants and raised flowers highlighted the sold gold necklace centres. To match the theme of City Palace Jaipur various motifs appeared on the jewellery: Minarets on armlets and intricate shields for the earrings.. palace carvings on necklaces and pearl trellis earrings.. and a kandeel as a pendant at the end of a pearl strand!

MEHUL BARADIA presented bridal ornaments which moved from elaborate cummerbunds and Raani Haars.. Maang Tikkas and diamond-and-emerald looped necklaces.. a neckpiece of laced diamonds to a emerald pendant with coordinated chandelier earrings. Yet another innovative addition to the jewel box seems to be the shimmering harnesses which designers are pushing for the western dresser. Presenting a collection called Quirky Copper NEHA SHARMA moved away from the comfort zone of regular jewellery and had an armlet-cum-ring and a glittering finger shield.. Haath Phool and triangular enamelled earrings. The imposing large pearls on a rectangular statement carved pendant and the pearl harness with an enamelled amour plate were jewellery meant for the strong 21st century divas! BALJINDER KAUR BAHL presented Vivah. The choker with its encrusted beauty.. the three diamond chains with matching kada.. the draped emerald necklace and the strands of diamonds with fluttering butterflies were ideal for a lady who wants to be in the limelight. Diamonds-rubies-emeralds made a great style statement for HARSHINI JETHANI lush necklaces that flowed from neck to navel. Multi strands of pearls and delicate lace designs and pearl-encrusted kadas were ornaments that women just dream about.

And did you know that some of the young jewellery designers are also concentrating on jewellery for the calves and ankles? Designer duo FORUM PAREKH AND RAINA BHANSALL presented a collection called Statements starting with a plaited necklace and leg anklet while the haute couture entrance was a neckpiece crafted from gold and prcious stones seductively draped over the shoulder. It is heartening to notice that new additions of jewellery categories like the body harness and multi finger rings.. ornaments for the legs and hips. The Gen Next graduates are all set to shake the Indian jewellery industry with their unconventional talent and strong designs statements which will give the country an edge over world competition.

Indian Institute of Gems and Jewellery
 
Indian Institute of Gems and Jewellery
 
Indian Institute of Gems and Jewellery
 
21-JULY-2014
 
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