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REGIMENTAL MENSWEAR

— Meher Castelino

How men's wear has changed over the years and evolved is quite amazing. From the mundane white shirt, dull pant and sombre jacket which men wore for many decades, the 21st century reveals that now the Indian male is more daring, adventurous and experimental in how he dresses. 

One of the designers who believes in giving importance to men's wear with an innovative seasonal look is Nivedita Saboo. She doesn't see her men dressed like the masses. She likes her men to make a strong masculine style statement that reflects a marked designer touch but at the same time the garments are totally wearable. 

Her latest collection "A Rendition of the Raj" is a regimental line of men's wear inspired by the days of colonial India. The collection offers men an option of dressing up in stylish gear without appearing as if at a costume party! It took five months of intense research to create the fashionably authentic collection. The accessories and jewellery for the collection were sourced from the best outlets while some of it was designed exclusively to create the right look for the garments. "I have not only incorporated structured western silhouettes but also portrayed the fluidity of our heritage drapes and craft in the western and Indian garments," explains Nivedita. To bring the collection to life, she selected her fabrics with great care and opted for honeycomb cotton, flax, Bhagalpur silk, silk wool, herringbone, houndstooth, variations of wool, Pashmina, Tweed, suede, felt and leather. Adding the British Raj Indian touches, she incorporated minute detailing that brought the design elements of the garments into the limelight. 

Military inspired jackets sport elbow patches, high buttoned collars are regal in appearance, leather piped lapels and plackets look stylish, printed jackets and trousers add colour, while waistcoats worn over kurtas or shirts, lungis and fluid salwars complete the line. An asymmetric opening for a button waist coat gives an edgy look to the garment while ombré kurtas, elegant breeches, epaulets in contrast fabrics and discreet embroidery on shoulders, collars, yokes and cummerbunds add to the style quotient. An interesting touch is double lapels and detachable zippered sleeves that magically turned a jacket into a waist coat!! Attention to micro finish is Nivedita's forté and it is evident in the tiny edging and piping as well as printed linings, which are seen peeping out from under coat collars and jackets. The ornamental regimental ropes, medallions and brooches are removable for the man who wants a timeless look. Zippers appear in unexpected places on garments but fit perfectly into the style element of the theme as well as the outfits. The T-shirts and shirts under the jackets could be worn solo for a casual morning while the many jackets could be used as coordinates. Ethnic wear is flamboyant with exclusive prints for sherwanis which are teamed with skinny pants or wide velvet salwars and bundgala jackets with just the right hint of military detailing.

Nivedita does not restrict the colour story and brought in an amalgamation of deep masculine hues like black, grey, brown and earthy tones like burnt orange, ivory, burgundy and a hint of vermillion. The silhouettes are a mix of the structured and the fluid. While trousers on one end are skinny, the ethnic offering of dhotis and salwars is wide and cowled. Jackets and sherwanis remain structured with the single and double breast cuts being the favoured ones. The traditional tuxedo is also given a contemporary look while maintaining the inspiration of the Raj theme.

A gold medal winner from the National Institute of Fashion Technology Delhi, Nivedita headed the Design Studio of Arvind Brands before she launched 'Nivedita Saboo Couture' in 2002. "I want men's wear to be as different, stylish and unconventional as women's wear and the detailing and silhouettes I visualise are totally wearable but at the same time very avant garde," she reveals. Bringing in the theme of the Indian Raj, Nivedita Saboo managed to present a wearable chic men's wear line that moves effortlessly from day to evening wear.
 

REGIMENTAL MENSWEAR
REGIMENTAL MENSWEAR
 
REGIMENTAL MENSWEAR
REGIMENTAL MENSWEAR
 
25-DECEMBER-2014
 
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