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RAHUL MISHRA
Runway Report
 

As it faces up to a world of reconfigured priorities, what action should couture take to stay relevant? Should designers be paring back or keep pushing the new? On Rahul Mishra's runway, that tension surfaced. His solution was to play it both ways, with austere silhouettes on the one hand and sumptuously lavish hand embroidery on the other. ''There has been a great deal of participation from weavers and embroiders residing in villages. We took centuries old motifs and silhouettes and made it modern not just in the styling but in its construction'' the designer told me the eve before his showing at Amazon India Couture Week. 

 

Finding the future in the far past—it's a challenge that would stimulate artists in any arena. Rahul Mishra addressed it in his choice of materials, movement and construction. From the first look — ivory hand-embroidered long dress — it was clear that classic silhouettes crafted from intricately embroidered handlooms were going to be showcased with the masterful precision of a global aesthetic. Rahul's ideals stood at the crossroads of architecture and sportiness, focusing on grown-up, fluid constructions, as in a jersey crop top and handwoven hand-embroidered silk chanderi lehenga that cinched at the hip, or a hand-embroidered chintz bomber jacket and lehenga which brought to mind his statement that "the beauty of design lies in mixing the strangest of things and make them harmonious". Elsewhere, a simple hand-embroidered silk long dress folded easily around the body. "The idea is that the clothes will evolve with movement," the designer noted of the sartorial sleekness of a sheer silk cape worn over a hand-embroidered sari.

 

Mishra continued to make his point, from a handwoven silk chanderi trench worn over a sari, to a hand-embroidered silk Banarasi lehenga and cape that closed the show. Fashion present floats on an ocean of fashion past. It was a look you could imagine piquing the interest of the women he's drawn to his label. A judicious blend of sports-luxe in the construction: I loved zippers on the classic silhouettes! My favourite must—buy looks? The bomber and biker jackets with elaborate hand embroidery — perfect for a destination wedding and occasion wear thereafter! All you need to do is style it differently. Salut!

— JASMEEN DUGAL

 
 
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Other Shows by this Designer
RAHUL MISHRA - Spring Summer 2011 RAHUL MISHRA - Autumn Winter 2011
RAHUL MISHRA - INDIA COUTURE WEEK 2018 RAHUL MISHRA - Spring Summer 2012
RAHUL MISHRA - Autumn Winter 2011 RAHUL MISHRA - SPRING SUMMER 2014
RAHUL MISHRA - Spring Summer 2013 RAHUL MISHRA - AUTUMN WINTER 2013
RAHUL MISHRA - FALL 2015 RAHUL MISHRA - INDIA COUTURE WEEK 2017
RAHUL MISHRA - INDIA COUTURE WEEK 2016  
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