JOY MITRA

Runway Report

Joy Mitra opened the second day of Delhi Times Fashion Week — conceptualised and executed by Talent Factory. This showing held a special place in my heart. I have been observing Joy since his debut, during the days I was working with Condenast India, up until today. In those days too, he was resolutely determined to stick with his aesthetic of keeping the look sleek, elegant and relevant, with an Indian soul. While some others let the theme and narrative of the showing take precedence, he is clear the spotlight would be trained on the ensembles. That hasn't changed.

 

From the first look, it was clear that bridal silhouettes handcrafted with chanderi, silk and chiffon were being showcased with the precision of a globally relevant aesthetic. Titled 'Monsoon Wedding', the kurta-style anarkalis, the draped lehengas [some with the most esquisitely handworked jackets that kissed the floor] and the saris — enhanced with intricate zardozi, hand embroideries, Kashmiri kashida and Gujrat mirrorwork — are the stuff bridal dreams are made of. The most awe-inducing moment however was when Chitrangda Singh closed the show in a crimson red lehenga-choli with a lightweight dupatta shimmering with mukaish, almost as though the stars had descended to bless the bride. I loved the detailing that he had invested into crafting this bridal look — gota patti work and intricate hand embroideries on the hem. A kundan statement neckpiece, sensuous nath and braided hairstyle intertwined with Jasmine flowers, completed the look.

 

In the end, it was the simpler ensembles that felt most versatile while the ornate looks were perfect bridalwear. My last thoughts on this collection drenched with a monsoon palette? It's a new chapter for Joy Mitra who fearlessly injected couture codes with commercial viability. And that's the kind of growth critics and buying houses believe in.

— Jasmeen Dugal