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Indian Designers

Kolkata designer Jaya Misra's revivalist aesthetic is threaded throughout her modernist label. Under this aegis she works on diverse collections from Resort and RTW to Bridal and the news of being Official Designer for Femina Miss India 2013 and designing for none other than Amitabh Bachchan and Aditya Roy Kapoor has given her label a solid foothold in fashion. But there is more to her story than what appears on the surface and the only way to get in there and figure it out was to sit down and talk to her myself.


"Bengal textile industry doesn't need huge investment to prosper. So it's heartrending to see gifted weavers reducing in number due to no work" she told me. "Beyond a fascination with and love of the fashion industry, comes a fascination with textile heritage, so the sourcing is very important to me. I've always been inspired by Bengal's handloom heritage as working with old textiles and weaves gives me contentment. I aspire to revive the repressed glory of weavers." Referencing deep pride in textile heritage—Jaya Misra designs cocktail couture and bandhgala suits… lehengas and saris crafted with ancient weaves like Dhonekhali, Nilamabari and Shantipuri. She's big on colours and hand-spun textiles. Not because it's stylish but because she likes them. She's independent with a fresh outlook and a quiet voice which is refreshing in an era dictated by retail and peer influence. And she designs garments with a radical element to grab attention, exhibiting the confidence and attitude of today's generation.


"I aspire to recreate traditional Indian opulence—with a Bohemian spin” she says. That remark brought to mind how some of her ensembles capture the way weavers in Bengal's villages interlace threads on a loom and interweave yarns to make patterns—injected with a personal touch i.e. antique zari bootis and woven zari borders! All collections are also accessorised with bags and footwear to complete the look. No wonder the collections are a sell-out—in India and on foreign land… among Kolkata A-List and Bollywood's star-truffled luminaries. Jai Ho!


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